It’s not really a pattern that one can quickly toile up – you’ve pretty much got to fully construct them to assess fit, so I decided to go to a wearable toile and make them up in a lightweight black stretch denim from Darn Cheap Fabrics. I can’t remember how much fabric I bought, but I’m certain it was less than the recommended amount and I just had enough. I suspect it was about 1.7m. I forgot to adjust the waistband to be one piece when cutting it out, so just turned it around 180 degrees so that the seams were at the back.
I cut a straight size large, based on my hip measurement, with no adjustments other than the waistband. With the fly and waistband faff eliminated construction was quick and easy. The pockets are drafted beautifully with that fabulous geometric construction. As I read on someone Instagram post you get two pockets for the price of one – perfect for separating sticky small person detritus from other items. I did not do any of the recommended top stitching due to these being a toile, until the end, when I top stitched the crotch seam only.
It was apparent once I’d attached the waistband that there were some fitting issues in the front. The back bum fit was ok, but I certainly wouldn’t want a size smaller there, especially as these had some stretch in them. There was way too much fabric in the front crotch, and I feel this is the case on most of the versions I’ve seen made up, including the modelled photos on the website. I managed to improve it a little by unpicking and taking some off the front inner seam as per the advice on this fab resource, but I could easily pin out a good 1.5cm wedge out of the crotch depth and still be comfortable.
Version two was made in a little bit of a rush before a recent holiday to sunny Queensland (because it is mid winter here, and so cold!). We all do that silly pre holiday sewing don’t we? I had some chambray cotton/modal in my stash from Spotlight and it was the perfect weight for some warm weather Palisades.
- removed the fly extension (1)
- removed 5mm from the front inseam crotch length (2)
- Removed 15mm from the front crotch in a wedge, tapering to nothing at the seam allowance (3). Because this piece is quite narrow I had to add a little to the top of the opposite seam allowance to true it up (4)
- trimmed the front and back inseam to the size medium to narrow the legs a little (in addition to removing the 5mm from the front inseam crotch length)
- Sewed the middle and back leg seams with a SA of 15mm to just below the level of the pockets just to narrow the legs a little more
- Added a little extra width, about 8mm to the CB crotch seam, for just a little more bum width as this fabric has no stretch
- Full elastic waistband as per version 1, with extra faffing…. see below….
- Hemmed a little shorter than recommended, mostly because I like slightly cropped length (and only a little bit to do with the fact that I was a dimwit and ran out of fabric for the front leg piece, had to piece the last inch and a half and THANK GOODNESS it was pretty much the perfect hemmed length at the piecing seam) .
1 – Press down the centre of the waistband, then sew the ends together, but leave the section on the inner band between the seam allowance where it attaches to the pants and the outer band open. As you can see I went a few mm over so that there would be no open waistband on the top.
2 – Press it all open. Top stitch around the gap you have made. I would also recommend overlocking or zigzagging those raw edges as I didn’t and the loose threads were annoying when trying to thread the elastic.
3 – Pin long raw edges together.
4 – Sew your three channels at desired width, stopping an inch or two away from the hole.
5 – Attach waistband to the pants ensuring the hole is on the inside and lining this up with the centre back. I just attached it then overlocked the raw edges. I think maybe the pattern suggests to attach the outside, then the inside and stitch in the ditch.
6 – Thread elastic. This is where I started to go wrong. I sewed three 20mm channels. But 20mm channels will not fit 20mm elastic. They’ll fit maybe 16 or 17mm elastic if you are lucky. So I had to narrow my elastic using the overlocker. I couldn’t even find 15mm elastic. From a distance it looks lovely – even gathers, no rippling. But in reality the three layers don’t sit well. They fold and collapse, the waistband has no sturdiness and often the elastic twists within its channels. I’m wondering if the collapsing is due to my mum tum (much like the flat front pants, the separate elastics doesn’t have great vertical stability) or whether it’s due to the elastic being weakened by being narrowed. Regardless it’s unfortunately just not working well, and sadly I think come spring if I can’t find any 16mm elastic I’ll be unpicking those channels, adding in one wider piece of elastic and top stitching it down.
Regardless of my waistband experiments I’m really happy with this version. I love the subtle curve of the leg and of course the pockets. I feel I can still remove a little more crotch length from the front inner leg seam, maybe another 5mm. I’ve definitely got plans for another pair this spring in black or dark grey linen. Maybe I’ll play around with the pocket design, but probably not – it’s just too cool! I feel it’s a pattern worth perfecting if you’re after a casual woven pull on pant that’s a little more elevated than a basic leg and slant pocket. I hope my words are helpful to someone – it’s hard to know these days how much anyone is reading blogs, but I find posts like these so helpful. They’re time consuming, for sure, but it’s nice to contribute to that collective knowledge we all make use of when improving our garment sewing. xxx